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Emerging from a world of trending
hashtags, these 5 unconventional stylists are redefining the way we’re looking
at fashion, especially in a post-pandemic era.
Beyond the glamour and elegance of celebrity-styling, their perspective focuses on the changing curve of the industry, towards authenticity and the raw essence of fabric.
Ekta Rajani, a freelance creative consultant is revisiting the memory lane to glean eco-conscious lifestyle tips and tricks, while staying true to character and opening a canvas for sustainable fabrics to paint a story within the fashion frame. Inspiring mindfulness in everyday life, she inspires a creative outlook towards going 100% sustainable.
Anushka Sharma looks comfortable in her skin thanks to the precise balance that Allia Ul Rafai puts into styling. Choosing the right fabric and molding the look to reflect the self is an art that she has practiced for long, bringing character into each outfit with an innate sense of confidence. Style is not imitation, but rather a reflection of who we are inside.
Similarly, the flow of a garment dictates the way a look comes across on camera. Who can understand this better than Devki, styling Taapsee Pannu with an insight into the chic-urban scene while being aware of the energy that she portrays. The crisp minimalism complements the bubbly flair nature in each look. This insight develops into each outfit looking tailored to fit not just her form but also her mood.
This vibe harkens to return to
Indian roots with ‘Who Wore What When’ by Pranay Jaitly and Shounak Amonkar. An
Indo-modern touch to each silhouette makes their styling unique in its taste
and framing. Tradition flows easily within the threads looping an urban
silhouette while the continual feminity is punctuated by effortless undertones
of liberty.
This understanding stems from
conscious sensibilities that call to the unveiling of a façade in which the
industry has been wrapped, instead, manifesting a raw aesthetic that reveals
the truth behind the look rather than carpeting it. As we step into a
sustainable era, these stylists remind us that it’s equally important to be
true to our roots and to enhance the sense of self for a more authentic world
to thrive on-screen.
As we collectively move towards another two weeks in lockdown, the earth has pressed a pause button on most of our personal and professional lives. The Fashion Industry as we know it no longer exists. As global financial markets tumble, non-essential markets shut their doors and consumers lock themselves indoors under government directives, the humankind has come to a standstill. As an industry, we witnessed shocks to supply chains and sales. Stocks are down and retail markets struggle to keep their employees on the payroll. We now have an industry in front of us that needs to be built from the ground up. It’s time to redesign and reimagine our business models as producers and revaluate our decisions as consumers. Since we have to start over again, we can do it right this time.
The fashion industry is particularly problematic due to its swivel-eyed pace of change that it not only undergoes but also promotes. It encourages consumers to buy into styles to stay on-trend. As a result, we as fashion consumers contribute to 4% of the world’s waste each year. As an industry, we contribute to 10% of the global carbon emissions and 20% of wastewater. Fashion sucks up more energy than both aviation and shipping combined.
The question that now arises, is that how do we as consumers start over? How do we get it right? How do we make use of all this time we have to rethink our decisions? Shopping resale is both sustainable and better for the environment. Thrift shopping helps the planet and your cool factor. The saying “one man’s trash is another man’s treasure” is now truer than ever.
COVID-19 can live on and thus be passed through used and pre-owned items. It is this stigma that can affect the future of the resale industry. This puts us all in a pickle, but is it warranted? It is preferable to shop resale if not advised with the right precautions being taken. It’s time for both sellers and consumers to be more proactive about cleaning and disinfecting items. Wash garments in the hottest water recommended for the fabric, wipe your shoes and bags with alcohol wipes as soon as you purchase them. It is important to take all the necessary precautions.
In light of the events, it’s wiser to shop from hobbyist sellers like Etsy, Instagram pages, and online resellers as it not only provides them with an income but is safer for you as compared to big box stores that have a large number of touchpoints.
In this new post -COVID-19 world the factors that need to be considered before making your new purchase have changed. It’s not about “Can I buy this from a Thrift store?” anymore. It is more about considering questions like “What do I need?”, “Can I make this on my own?”, “How much use will I get out of this?”, “Do I have a substitute?”, “Can this be borrowed?”, and so on. Numerous questions based on lifestyle choices need to be considered if we wish to start over right.
Like a beautiful crystal, found naturally in an ore, Roop is the unpolished essence of change, a restoration of generational heirlooms. Like her grandmother before her, Roop is the complexity of youth woven in the same Banarsi saree, in the simplicity of its form.
Priyanka Raajiv endeavors to
intertwine the threads of this connection that transcends time and weave a
story within traditional handloom fabric. A parallel softness lies in the
narrative of restoration: it is done carefully with the expert skill of
artisans who have learned the craft from their grandparents.
The Indian fashion designer began imbibing upcycling from day 1 into the brand philosophy and gave it a signature touch. The modern woman yearns for a continuation of intuitively structured pieces while metamorphosis takes place with millennial sensibilities. Bringing about this balance of perspective in a saree or a lehenga is intricate work, taking minute details to give the antiquity an artistic finesse.
Taking a 100-year-old Paithani saree or a 30-year-old kurta that is worn out and adorning it to create eloquent pieces of urban shade is a skill that revolves around the fourth R of sustainability- repurpose. A grandmother or a mother-in-law cherishes the memories tied into the loom of each saree, each lehenga that they have doned as a kaleidoscopic shrine of their life.
To pass this on, Priyanka Raajiv consults her clients with a honed knowledge of silhouettes and fabrics, writing biographies into a restoration, like a family repository hidden in its essence. The soul of this process lies in the translation of retaining the exclusivity of a piece while using antique zardozi, sequins, and embroidery to reveal the deliberate rarity of the original fabric.
Roop has been an essential
part of Priyanka Raajiv label since it’s conception, curated with an
eco-conscious mindset, storytelling within a garment’s unrestricted flow: a
tale of transformation.
A window to Indian
sensibilities around sustainable practices, Vaishali S’s new flagship store
interiors are an intracultural homecoming that brings a raw essence to the
room.
Within the doors and windows of the reminiscent interiors are held narrative allegories of rebirth. Vaishali S built this store much like her eponymous label, with scrupulous detailing and a personal touch to each sculptural silhouette.
Doors from the abandoned dumping grounds of Saki Naka and Jogeshwari picked to give these pieces of wood meaning again, transform the unpurposed slabs into a layered family of benches, doors and window frames is a responsible effort that draws tenacity to the store.
To glimpse through the
kaleidoscope of these stories would be akin to an autobiography of the store
doors:
‘I remember everything. Every
single family that has made its humble abode within my confines, and the tear
as I was pulled away from my ancestral home. The bumps of the truck dislodged
me, and there I was, stripped of all meaning, lying at the bottom of a dumping
ground.
I didn’t feel sorry for myself, I only felt the loss of a home. This raw emotion settled into my surface for decades like water seeping into crude wood.
Then, I was picked up and
brought back to life. As I survey the grandiose of the Kalaghoda precinct, I
feel like a humble passenger in the train of life, sitting next to a colonial
Englishman smoking a pipe, but I remember everything.
I remember with fondness the families that closed me into their hearts while building a home for themselves. I hope that when you come to visit, you will sense nostalgia in this simple villager in your midst.’
The ancient craft of handloom weaves everything together here, brings back fusion in texture, an orchestra of form. Shaded in copper-bronze, rock, mud, and wood, the color palette of these interiors is an uninterrupted flow of hue, that has come together guided by coincidental intuition.
This dedication to earthen furniture paints a village scene enhanced by mogra garlands that line crude edge surfaces, draped over the ethereal forms of homegrown fabrics. Each piece has a beautiful choreography that naturally coincides with the ensembles and the art. From the chair that has a grandmother’s lap thread loop around its wooden base to the simple handloom threads crisscrossing across space, the atmosphere created is one of nostalgia, but also of rememorizing a childhood home.
Inside the doors of Vaishali S flagship store, this artistic resonance is absorbed into hand-polished cow dung and mud walls. This perspective of keeping the interiors cool is an age-old technique taking root in the concrete city. A wall with repurposed wood turned into lamps kept integral to the unpolished façade; frames the soul of Vaishali S within its intrinsic storytelling.
The depth to each upcycled piece is a beeline to the zero-waste concept that the label has been inculcating into ensembles since it’s conception. The unspooling thread of Vaishali S store interiors is a journey to the ancestral secrets of sustainability, written with simple words, narrated aesthetically.
To weave is to create a skin out of fabric. And to feel free in one’s skin is a rarity. For marginalized persons in the global industry, this means to overcome hurdles of racism and sexism, in order to feel identified with and not labeled by the norms and standards of the fashion industry.
To achieve this threshold keeping in tandem with nature brings core sustainability to the open-lens outlook held by some niche Indian labels building a hearth of eco-sensible mindsets with their innovative approach. This marks a beautiful pause in the Indian fashion industry, where we are returning to the tenacity of our heritage, engaging in a retrouvaille of handmade crafts.
The way you look says a lot about how you identify, and where you come from, and this is the poignant epiphany taking place with Indian fashion labels today.
One such label is Naushad Ali, based in Pondicherry, a minimalist hub of global perspectives, drawn from the depth of traditional craftsmanship. Measuring crisp lines in handloom thread, this label follows a 100% natural process from yarn to dye, leading a zero-waste approach since 2014. Working with the weaving clusters in West Bengal, the label inculcates ethnic threadwork in gender-fluid apparel, keeping the tone classy and clean, cutting edge with an international touch.
Rajesh Pratap Singh, a vintage when it comes to fashion labels, has an eco-conscious lead in the industry. With it’s stellar contributions to sustainable fashion, the 1997-established label is also mapping a gender-fluid paradigm, one where the essence of responsible practices are cherished and unbiased clothing is brought into a safe space.
The harbinger of Khunn to international markets, Vaishali S is a cartographer of ethical and eco-conscious complexities. Maintaining a zero-waste approach since the conception of the label, Vaishali S has delved into the intricate layers of weaving communities spread across India. From marking Guledagudda, the birthplace of Khunn on the map to underlining the unique skill of Indian traditional artisanry, the label has a signature spectrum of accessories made to create security around the concept of freedom.
‘Jod’, a collection by Priyanka Raajiv is testimony to the integrity of upcycling unpurposed fabric pieces. In the numerous weaving cultures explored by this label, hand embroidery flourishes as an aspect to look through the lens of the artisan. In this collection, remnants of emotionally cherished fabric pieces are upcycled through handcrafting a color palette of corals, blue-greens and soothing shades of peach, airbrushed with a tone of eco-fashion sensibilities. While it caters to women, this collection has the versatility in its featherlight silhouettes of wardrobe pieces like scarves, which can be donned by anyone.
The weaver of Khadi as he is often harkened, Anurag Gupta has a long-standing authenticity in handmade apparel. From the buttons sewn on his mostly khadi garments to the hand-embroidered thread, everything is a result of manual labor, that takes the age-old skill into a painstaking endeavor of giving crisp outlines to traditional silhouettes. The label weaves garments with a gender-non-conforming flow, giving its signature touch to each handwoven silhouette, drawing a generational guideline of natural sustainability.
Fishnets and metallic foils re-engineered to make the fabric is a feat that AKHL has turned into a creative venture. From upcycling unmalleable materials to the detailed technicalities of fabric making, the label works with local weavers to make free-flowing gender-neutral garments. The structure of their pieces is evocative, unburdened, and unwavering in their sustainability; their forte being the reuse and upcycling of versatile materials to create ethereal elements.
The ethos of Indian sustainability lies not in the adaptation of international practices but in what is currently a renaissance of ancient techniques, rooted in the simplicity of weaving villages across the country. To blend this handspun thread into a pattern of gender complexities is yet another step towards a worldview that sees beyond the obvious and into the abstract to glean from centuries-old knowledge and apply it to the contemporary framework.
Fashion, to a large extent, shapes societal thinking. It may require sludging through years of unresolved and hidden layers, but with labels that aspire to be pioneers of eco-gender fashion and upcycled couture, the Indian handloom industry has messiahs to restore it to it’s deserved merit.
