Tag: fabrics

15
Jan

A wrinkle in time: Ambi by Sujata Pai

Ambi by Sujata Pai has a distinct quality of making unique and cherished sarees from the rich heirloom of India. Her vision to showcase Indian textiles with a different eye is threaded through a needle passing through the time it has taken to inculcate this skill into a community of weaver families.

The simplicity of this concept is that it’s homegrown, tracing our roots back to ancient folklore and fables. These are etched into the motifs that are typically used in Ambi sarees- mango motifs, to follow the name, peacock feathers on a breezy pallu, elegant paisley pattern, lotus, and animal motifs. Her home base being Chennai, she herself is a voyager, setting up her printing in Delhi, and empowering weavers from all across the country with specialized local skills that make them unanimous experts in the craft of a particular weave.

The ancient weaves that have traveled from as far as the Byzantine empire are seen in Ambi’s one of a kind piece, embroidered with zari from Kutch mud plains of Gujarat. Ambi brings together fabrics and weaves of fine artistry and craftsmanship with a beautiful movement that creates a singular element to diversity. From the Banaras tradition to mulberry silkworm that has woven light as air Maheshwari silk, the sarees are a poetic eulogy to lost crafts.

The sunsets of South Indian hills fall over one fabric that takes to the Gota Patti work of Rajasthan sand dunes, and in the magic of the desert night, slip to the Bramhaputra with Muga Buta silk, the identity of Assam for a new dawn.

This journey of fabrics is seen in every piece by Ambi, cherishing crafts long borrowed from the 20th century France, antiques of Bali and even so far back as the Persian dynasties, breathing innovation in these threaded creations.

Woven seamlessly into one piece, the fabrics are intuitively in tandem, a dance of hues and patterns that carry the remnants of age-old heritage.

06
Jan

Requiem for tomorrow: खणं

As a culture that has it’s depth and meaning in textiles, we tend to dismiss fashion as haute couture nonsense. Little do we know where it comes from.

In small villages in Maharashtra and Karnataka, local experts in ancient art, are weaving Khunn to create styles that aim to boom internationally. From a fabric that every home in these regions has seen, Vaishali S Studio creates innovative forms with a global appeal.

While we sit in our off the counter, mass-produced lives, she’s bringing back local style, nonchalantly disregarded. Using a sharp needle and wit, she revives Khunn, recoining elegance in thread work. The beauty of the fabric is in imprints narrated in a vocabulary of sun, stars, animals, and diamonds. Homespun threadwork is rhythmic, a clock turning back time, breathing life into this dying fabric with each handloom’s motion.

Taking this textured design, Vaishali S Studio gives it a signature touch: wearable art. Building a new-age sensibility, they intellectually shape silhouettes to change the way your wardrobe designs your lifestyle. Beyond aesthetic, drapes and folds in sheer grace, defines the architecture of their garments.

In global identities that we forge so easily, our individuality is often left stranded. And subtle art is never fanatic; it aims to merge, to blend the traditional into a worldview that attracts a wider audience.

Vaishali S Studio is making a humble attempt to give voice to old local stories in a world where everything is freshly trending. In this endeavor, each feather-light thread becomes heavier, not as a burden but as a memory, Khunn, becoming a requiem for tomorrow.